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Signs of a Well-Tailored Suit: Key details to look out for 


Being one of the finest bespoke tailors in a city like Bangkok, we are constantly faced with questions about what to look out for to ensure a tailored suit is of the highest possible quality. There are hundreds of tailors out there, so it is essential to know what you are asking and what you are looking at when you receive the finished product. Today, we are going to walk you through what you should expect from the experience of dealing with a reputable high-end tailor and discuss some of the key features that a high-quality bespoke suit should always have.

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Patrick & Co is bespoke tailoring company and formal wear consultancy. Get in touch with us or visit our store in Bangkok. We are ready to serve you.

The importance of the process 

The experience you have with a tailor will tell you a lot about the quality of the service you are going to receive. Firstly, you should never feel pressured into making any decisions regarding your new suit. A tailor should be informative and give good suggestions, but at the end of the day, the choice is yours to make, and the tailor should respect that. Another tell-tale sign of a good tailor is telling you the truth when something might not work for you. It isn’t always pleasant to hear, but a tailor’s advice could potentially save you a lot of money. 

Once you have made the decision, had your measurements taken, and made the necessary arrangements, a good tailor will keep in contact, asking any important questions they have about the suit. When they call you to return to the shop, they will not give you the suit and expect you to leave. When you receive a high-quality service, your first visit should be to try it on, discuss any changes you want to make, and for the tailor to make any necessary adjustments. Sometimes, you may be required to visit the tailors two or three times before taking the suit away. This level of care and precision is something you should definitely expect to find when buying quality.

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The tell-tale signs to look out for

Now, we are going to move on to the features of a suit that will tell you of its quality. Unless specifically requested otherwise, a high-quality bespoke suit should follow these general rules. Some are more obvious than others, but at Patrick & Co., we regard them all incredibly important. It is vital for a tailor to take their time and create a masterpiece when tailoring a great suit. Good tailors should take pride in their work and never be satisfied with anything less than perfection.


Fabric – The fabric of your suit is entirely down to what you choose, but if you are purchasing a high-quality bespoke suit, it should be made of completely natural fabrics. Your suit fabric should contain no synthetic fibres at all. It may be difficult to tell if you aren’t experienced with fabric, but you can take fabric samples to someone who knows more if you are concerned about this. A good quality natural fabric should have a thread count of more than 120.

Buttons – If your tailor has finished a suit with plastic buttons, then you can be sure they have opted for cheaper, low-quality features elsewhere. A high-quality button should be made of a strong material such as buffalo horn. You will be able to quickly tell whether your tailor has chosen a quality button over plastic. Another feature that shows quality is the way it is stitched on. It should have a stem of twisted thread that allows ample space for the fabric to rest snugly but not too tight when fastened.

Stitching – On a suit, there are two types of stitching. The structural stitching will be done by machine, but you should also have decorative stitching, known as pic stitching. This is primarily found around cuffs, pockets, and lapels and offers a pleasant aesthetic. This stitching should also be done carefully by hand to create intricate patterns that make your suit stand out.

Collar – As it is one of the most essential features of a suit jacket, it is always worth lifting it to see if it has been eased and set by hand. You can tell this by the hand stitching at the base of the felt and a small foldback that allows future alterations to the suit.

Lapels – In a cheap or rushed suit, you can expect to have folded lapels with straight ridged lines. A good bespoke suit should come with rolled lapels. The reason for this is that the suit’s shape is eventually dictated by the wearer. When this isn’t done, suits can appear uncomfortable and ill-fitting.

Buttonholes – The buttonholes are another sign of a good-quality suit. When a tailor strives for perfection, they create smooth and sleek buttonholes by hand. It is a long process, so if your tailor does this, you know you are getting your money’s worth. When buttonholes are made using a machine, you can tell.

Seam Allowance – This is a significant feature when spending money on a bespoke suit. As we get older, none of us know how our bodies are going to change, so a good tailor should leave some additional fabric tucked away in the lining for any alterations you might need on the suit in the future. There is no reason that you shouldn’t have this, as you are paying for quality. It is an expensive addition for the tailor, as most of a suit’s cost comes from its fabric, but it is essential.

Talk to an expert today.

If you are planning your next bespoke suit, feel free to contact Patrick & Co. today. We have been providing top-quality tailored suits in Bangkok for decades and would gladly guide you on what you should be looking for when you purchase your next suit. Remember, a suit is an investment in yourself, and you should take your time when deciding on how you want to appear. 

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